We had quite a treat on Tuesday evening. A very nice friend of David’s mother lives in Munich and invited us to be his guests at dinner. He drove us way the heck out of town to a village called Herrsching on the Ammersee lake at the end of the S-5 Schnellbahn (commuter train) line. He wanted us to see the sunset over the lake from the Biergarten in front of a favorite restaurant, but we got there about 30 minutes too late. We did get to see a lovely, clear evening settle in, though.
We then were his guests at dinner in a very good local restaurant. I had a tasty bacon and sauerkraut spätzele served in an old beat-up pewter skillet. Spätzele, those wonderful little dumplings, are one of my favorite German foods, a speciality of the Schwäbisch region, which includes Augsburg and other points west of Munich. We had a great evening, but before we could get some sleep, we had a load of jeans and a couple sets of undies, T-shirts and socks spinning in the dryer in the basement. We needed to pack them that night before we left at 5.30 in the morning to catch our train to Friedrichshafen.
The hiking in the foothills of the Alps behind King Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein castle was really spectacular. We ended up off the marked trail following footpaths that clung to the edge of the sheer drop most of the way, so we got treated to different viewpoints of the castle, the lake, the Alps, the surrounding communities, and as we got higher and higher, we could see Hohenschwangau castle (Ludwig’s childhood home) behind Neuschwanstein. We got about to the point where they take the postcard pictures, but we were much, much higher. It was just incredible. We had packed lunch treatments, and made ham and gouda sammiches on brötschen (small rolls, soft inside, crusty outside) on a semi-flat spot along the way.
Very few tourists make it beyond the Marien Brücke (the Maria Bridge) that Ludwig had built across the Pöllat Gorge, so our experience was extra special. It was a hike I have wanted to do since I first saw Neuschwanstein, but for one reason or another, mainly having to do with pressing time schedules or snow blocking the paths, I never got to do before.
Afterward we hiked back down, following the path this time, which only took about 20 minutes, the tour of the castle with a senior administrator was really interesting. We got to see a lot of behind-the-scenes stuff, including the structure that supports the domed roof of the throne room. It’s ironwork, as Ludwig had visited Paris and was impressed with Monsieur Eiffel’s structural work. We also got to go up the highest tower and walk around the balcony. The little room attached to the side of the tower top was going to be a little library room, but it wasn’t completed inside. It was raining at this point, one of those showers that springs up in the evening in the area, but we still walked around the outside balcony.
After a great breakfast (no one makes breakfast like the Germans, and the buffet at the guest house was superb. Herr und Frau Bastian are to be commended!) Tuesday morning we went to the Kristall-Therme, a rather nice spa near the Gästehaus Charlotte where we had spent the night. It was filled with mostly old people bobbing up and down in the pools. There were also several squealing kids. I wondered why they weren’t in school. We were a bit bummed that they closed the lap pool, which I never noticed the last time I was there. It is behind a round, very salty pool. It was T-shirt weather again Tuesday, as it was the day before (until we got higher up in the mountain). It was not bad outside, even though we were wet and in swimsuits. Two of the popular pools were outside. The last time I was there, the snow banks were about 6 feet away from the pools! Then it was quite a refreshing dash from pool to pool or to go inside.
After our swim and wallowing in the warm pools, we enjoyed a walk to the town of Füßen, the regional administrative center, which is where the trains to and from Munich stop. I was glad we only brought enough stuff for the night, and hence just had our daypacks, not our full backpacks. I did make the mistake of lugging this laptop, which was not needed as I really didn’t get any time to do much on it. We enjoyed a walk around the town, stopping to visit the Franciscan monastery and its church. The latter is tremendously ornate in that overdone Bavarian Baroque style. An interesting feature is a glass coffin with a bejeweled skeleton inside, apparently the relic of a minor saint.
We poked in a few shops where I bought a couple souvenirs, then bought stamps for my post cards at the post office near the station. Postage for a postcard to the U.S. is €1. I know not to complain about our own postage rates now! I wrote the postcards on the train back to Munich.
Back at the apartment, we had just enough time to toss in a load of clothes, primarily our two pairs of jeans each, before Sten picked us up and took us out to Ammersee for dinner. We got back about 10 p.m., and still had to put the laundry in the dryer (we used two €.50 coins to get almost an hour of drying time this time). We gathered our stuff from around the apartment, left “thank you” sticky notes for Markus and Rike, and when the clothes were dried, repacked our suitcases. It was after midnight when I got to bed.
I didn’t hear David up and about Wednesday morning, and woke up at 5.12. We had to be at the station no later than 5.30 to catch the U-Bahn to the main station. Talk about hustling! Good thing everything was packed. I ended up shaving and brushing my teeth on the train to Ulm, where we would change for the train to Friedrichshafen and our Zeppelin flight. More about that fantastic adventure in my next post!



